(穂高岳) Mt. Hotaka Hike

Famed as having one of the most dangerous/difficult trail in Japan (if not the most), I have been warned by hiker friends who are in no way newbies and have explored all over - so this is NOT to be underestimated.

But, there are numerous, numerous ways to summit Mt. Hotaka, so I'd rather avoid that dangerous section and not risk my life beyond the normal risks that come with hiking.

Also, there is another mountain amongst the Hyakumeizan called Mt. Hotaka (武尊山) in Gunma, and they are in no way related as far as I know.

Budget: JPY29,700 (~USD198)

JPY16,200. Roundtrip bus to Kamikochi (via maitabi)

Should be JPY8,000. Roundtrip bus, allocated using Willer Bus Pass (JPY4,000 one way), but for 2023, I couldn't find the bus stops.

JPY13,500. Stay at the mountain hut.

Or JPY2,000. Camping fee, but I'm doing this solo and will feel safer not carrying 15kgs of pack.

Hike Date / Difficulty (Elevation: 3,190m / 10,465ft)

September 23-24, 2023
Difficulty: 5 out of 5.
Route below is around 25.3kilometers, with an elevation change of ▲2,276m/ ▽2,275m
Map Link

When to Go
Buses from Tokyo to Kamikochi only run from mid April to early November, but the buses to Hirayu Onsen run throughout the year.

However, to get good weather and autumn foliage, early October is recommended.

Special Notes

Make sure you have a helmet. Gloves optional but highly recommended. It's quite a rock scramble whichever route you take, and helmets will protect your head from rocks that other hikers inadvertently kick, or from yourself if you end up not seeing a rock above your head.

I personally did hit my head and felt how the rock slid across my helmet, plus the pressure on my neck. It only happened one time, but if I wasn't wearing my helmet...

Trailheads. This hike definitely requires advanced consideration, as it can be quite dangerous.

Kamikochi (上高地). Direct to the summit, and more importantly, safer.

Direct Bus, Tokyo (Shinjuku) to Kamikochi. JPY4,000 one way, using JBL bus pass. Otherwise, depending on the season, JPY6,500 to JPY8,600 one way, reserve here.

Bus schedule, Tokyo < > Kamikochi

Shin-hotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Some of the trails are not passable due to an earthquake, the passable trail is either via Yarigatake or going up Shinhotaka Ropeway - which is the dangerous trail (Gendarme). Access wise, this is bus stop H065 in the schedule below. Take note that you would want to stop at the last stop - Shihotaka Ropeway, NOT Shinhotaka Onsen.

Bus, Tokyo to Hirayu Onsen (平湯温泉). JPY4,000 one way, using JBL bus pass. Otherwise, JPY6,200 one way, reserve here.
Bus, Hirayu Onsen to Shin-Hotaka Onsen. JPY690 one way.

Bus Schedule, Tokyo < > Hirayu Onsen

Bus Schedule, Hirayu Onsen < > Shinhotaka Ropeway

Mountain huts. There are quite a lot of camping spots and huts depending on the route, so I'm only writing the ones I'm considering for the route described in the map above.

Paid. Hotakadake-sansou (穂高岳山荘). Pretty expensive, a stay with no meals cost JPY7,300. Reservations at 090-7869-0045 or their website. Huts are open from July to October 24 for 2020.
Free. None. Outside of the hiking season, Hotakadake-sansou serves as an emergency hut, with an honesty basis JPY1,000 fee to be paid to their office upon use.
Camping. Near the summit - Hotakadake-sansou, JPY1,000 per person. The area was described as exposed at this blog, so that is a risk with camping, reservations required for 2020.
Camping. Karasawa Hut (涸沢ヒュッテ), JPY1,000 per person. Just in case the camping spot in Hotakadake-sansou gets too windy or too crowded.

Itinerary

Friday

10:30pm. Bus, Tokyo to Kamikochi

Saturday

05:20am. ETA: Kamikochi Bus Terminal.

4:49am arrived at Hirayu Onsen. Apparently this bus transfers at Hirayu Onsen as tourist buses are not allowed to Kamikochi. 5.09am the bus started boarding, and was quickly full. 5:40am arrived at Kamikochi.

06:00am. Start hike.

5:46 I started walking. It's nice to see Kamikochi without the crowds.

08:30am. ETA: 岳沢小屋

7.48 arrived at the hut. Refilled my water, which was good because I drank liters for this ascent. From here on, it's basically a crawl up. Signs to Maehotaka are marked with "マエホ" which means maeho.
At the first steep, narrow one, right below the ladder, I almost hit my head on a rock and that's how I know it's time to put helmet on.
It's basically all ascent from here, except the descent from Mae-Hotaka and the slight up and down between Mae-Hotaka and Oku-Hotaka. Some may say that it's "flat" but that's a lie. It's a continuous up and down, albeit less steep.