(朝日岳) Mt. Asahi Hike

We intentionally stayed at the summit to see the morning sun (朝日, get it?), and it was utterly worth it. It turned a meh-hike to a WOW THAT WAS AWESOME hike.  

Budget: JPY14,433 (~USD96)
  • JPY7,500. Share in tolls and gas. (JPY22,500 divided by 3)
  • JPY533. Parking. (JPY1,000 parking at trailhead, JPY600 at hotel, divided by 3)
  • JPY2,000. Stay at the hut
  • JPY300. Onsen.
  • JPY4,100. Hotel the night before (coz I'm old now) 
Hike Date / Difficulty (Elevation: 1,871m / 6,138ft)
  • August 26-27, 2023
  • Difficulty: 3 out 5. Nothing technical nor are there any rock scrambles.
  • Route below (backtrail to Kotera-kousen) is around 16.6kilometers, with an elevation change of ▲1,833m/ ▽1,833m (11h40m)
  • Map Link


When to Go
July 23 to August 17 if you don't have a car. Otherwise, early July to late October.
Looking at the emergency mountain hut though with the ladder to the second floor makes me think people hike here in outside of those months. 

Special Notes
  • Weather check: Japanese
  • Trailheads. There's quite a lot of them, and here's a rundown of each and the access to each. But if you don't have a car, the only realistic option really, is Asahi-kousen. Yet as the bus departs at 1pm, the start of the hike is 2:20pm at the earliest. A possibility is taxi to Kotera-kousen, then descend via Asahi-kousen, or, just rent a car. Or hitchhike.
    • Awataki Dam (泡滝ダム) / Ootori-tozanguchi (大鳥登山口). This trailhead means a 14 hour, 23.5km, ▲3,064m/ ▽1,683m hike to the summit.
      • Bus from Tsuruoka Station (鶴岡駅) to Ootoriguchi, details here. JPY1,430 one way. This is not running for 2020, and will have to update for 2021.
  
      • From Otori-tozanguchi to Awataki Dam, you'll have to hire a car, call 0235-53-2121.
    • Asahi-kousen (朝日鉱泉). Bus from Aterazawa Station (左沢駅), JPY3,500 one way, runs from July 23 to August 17, details here.
  
    • Kotera-kousen (古寺鉱泉). Google maps pin. No public transport, closest station is Aterazawa Station (左沢駅), 50 minutes by taxi (JPY11,000ish). If you have a car, this might be the best stop.
      • Parking lot requires JPY1,000 deposit (as of August 2023). Make sure you have the exact amount as there will be no change. 
      • Restrooms at the parking lot are only those emergency ones.
    • Hara Bus Stop (原バス停) / 障子ヶ岳登山口. There seems to be a bus from Yamagata Station (山形駅), but I just can't find it.
    • Rifure (りふれ) / 五味沢登山口. This trailhead means a 13 hour, 21.5km, ▲2,687m/ ▽1,161m hike to the summit.
      • From Koguni Station (小国駅), there's a bus that goes direct to Rifure (りふれ), at about JPY520 one way. Details here. Bus runs throughout the year.
        • Bus Schedule for Koguni (小国駅) -> Rifure (りふれ).
          • 07:22am -> 08:00am
          • 12:12pm -> 01:00pm
          • 03:52pm -> 04:30pm
          • 06:02pm -> 06:40pm
        • Bus Schedule for Rifure (りふれ) -> Koguni (小国駅).
          • 07:10am -> 07:53am
          • 08:10am -> 09:02am
          • 01:10pm -> 01:48pm
          • 04:40pm -> 05:18pm
    • 祝瓶山荘. No public transport.
    • Higuresawa-koya (日暮沢小屋). No public transport.
  • Mountain Huts. 
    • There's one right at the summit: Ooasahi-koya (大朝日岳)
      • Free... somewhat. You get the same thing as a free hut, but a person will be manning them from mid-June to mid-October, and you'll have to pay JPY2,000 per night during that period. Outside of that period, it's free. 
      • No reservations, first come, first served.
    • Torihara-koya (鳥原小屋), check the map above. 
Itinerary
Friday
  • Head out from Tokyo. I left around 5pm for our meetup location in Saitama, and arrived at our hotel in Yonezawa around 9:30pm. 
Satuday
  • 07:00am. Left our hotel. 
  • 09:10am. Arrived at the Kotera-kousen trailhead. Got ready, registered at the hut (need to wrap the application paper around JPY1,000  and put it in the box)
  • 09:30am. Start hike.
  • 12:23pm. Arrived at Kodera-yama, 小寺山
  • 01:05pm. Arrived at Koasahi-dake, 小朝日岳
  • 02:47pm. Arrived at the free hut. We decided against summiting as there was no visibility. 
Sunday
  • 04:00am ish? We woke up, got ready and headed out tot he summit. 
  • 04:41am. Summit. 
  • 06:00am. Started heading back down to the hut. 
  • 10:00am ish? We got back to the parking lot. 

So apparently our hotel does not allow... ladies of the night. Too bad for Dan. 

The view in our drive. 

We filled up this form, folded it, put JPY1,000 in and put it inside the box. 

The hike starts! Yey!

Some gentle ascent up. 

The first fork. 

This is the second water source, which I think can also be a spot for wild camping.

Hike continues. 

The scenic portion of the hike starts!

From the summit of Kodera-yama, 小寺山, we can see the rest of the hike. To the left is Koasahi-dake, to the right is O-Asahidake. 

Unfortunately it was a bit cloudy on day 1. 

And the clouds were messing up the colors. Pictures were generally meh. 

Summit of Koasahidake. 

Just need to cross this ridge and we're done. We can even see the mountain hut. The little dot at the center, right below the summit (which is the left peak)

The biggest dragonfly I've seen in my life. Probably at least 5 inches?

Looking back at my friend at the top of Koasahidake. 

A little bit further down, looking back at Koasahidake, we didn't realize how rocky it's face is. 

Continuing on the hike. Clouds lifted a little bit. 

The ridgeline. 

Getting there!

Still getting there!

Almost!

Ok maybe still a long ways to go. 

Be careful to refill water. Water source is to the left. 

Beautiful path.... up. :(

Nakadake to the right. 

The goal! The hut!

But Nakadake was looking fiiine. 

Finally at the hut. 

Plenty of windows with a view of the outside

For those needing a taxi....

View behind the hut. 

Looking back to where we were from. 

Drinking party at the hut! Scotch, wine and beer. AND chocolates!

The hut. 

Our trio staying together. 

Rise and shine! Our first view of the summit. 

Waiting for the sunrise. 

Other dude waiting for the sunrise. 

It was kind of meh. 

Where is the sun coming from?!

Ok that wasn't the sun. 

Before I forget, the summit marker!

Sea of clouds. Yes, we stayed an hour at the summit. 

This view again, coz I loved the reflection of the light. 

Oh, the meh view is starting to get pretty. 

....and soon enough it's just flat out gorgeous. 

Going down. You can see our hut. 

Bell, flowers and sea of clouds. 

Outside the hut. You can see the ladder for the upper floor's door, which makes me think that people hike here in the winter. 

Heading back down. 

Going back at the same ridge. The second peak to the left is Koasahidake. 

Looking back at the summit, this time with better lighting. 

as well as the surrounding mountains. Day 2 was a much prettier hike. 

We went to Ringo (apple) onsen to clean up. Unfortunately, there were no apples in the onsen. We were catfished. :(



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